Lord of the Rings

For the first time since I have been in NZ, someone has pointed out one of the locations used for Lord of the Rings. Mount Hutt rears up to the west of Methven, which is just one hour away from Christchurch. It is a massive lump of mountain, its slopes grey with shaley rock, which turns a wonderful beige in the sunlight. On its flanks were set the castle scenes from the film in which the ageing and decomposing king is finally persuaded to dump his adviser Wormtongue and join the fight against Sauron. All the sets were removed but the you can see how the mountains were so appropriate to the movie. In fact, during my journey yesterday, across the high plateau from Tekapo to Methven, there were many vistas redolent of the film. I'd like to watch it again now to see if I can spot more locations.

Having found some wonderful B&B accommodation just outside Methven, I have changed my plans yet again. I had intended to move on today to spend my penultimate night by the sea on the Banks Peninsula. Instead I am staying for two nights in Mike and Helen Johnstone's cottage on their farm. I have a magnificent view of the mountains from my bed and tonight I will be having dinner with them. They are a totally welcoming pair and it has been a pleasure to learn more about Kiwi life in the countryside.

Finally, I had a very moving encounter today. I was walking the Rakaia Gorge trail when I met a man coming in the opposite direction. We got talking and he suddenly told me his wife was really sick, had been for 18 months. She'd been in and out of hospital and had already had major surgery. I told him about Rosie and said that I understood and the conversation continued from there. I could see the real pain and hopelessness in his eyes and it was kind of clear that he wanted and didn't want the conversation at the same time. He was desperately trying to persuade himself that everything was okay, whilst knowing that it really wasn't and that his wife was probably dying. In the meantime he is caring for her, but finding it really hard. It was a story that is so familiar to me. I thought at one point he was going to cry, but he held the tears back. We talked for quite some time and he told me about his family and his English forebears and about how he would like to travel to Europe at some time and I knew that he was implying that he could/would do this after his wife, who is only 48, had died. It was so very sad and I got the feeling he was actually relieved to have this conversation with a stranger. I only hope it helped.